Corniglia and the Cinque Terre

So, I left Florence mid-morning and made the four-ish hour train journey to the Riviera, specifically Corniglia, which is the third and smallest of the Cinque Terre towns. The journey was a mixed bag, as always. When I got on the train in Florence I started talking to this girl from Norman, Oklahoma. She was also traveling alone, and we ended up talking the whole way to Pisa (which ended up taking almost 1 1/2. It was nice to talk with someone familiar with Texas. At least she didn't ask if I owned a horse--seriously, Americans ask that.

Anyway, so that was good. The only downside is that my luggage was so heavy, I couldn't even lift it into the overhead bin, so it ended up getting its own seat. I'm not sure that the Trenitalia people were so happy about this, but they didn't offer to help me lift it, so that's what they get. I'm definitely unloading some of my crud before I move on to Rome. I don't know if my back will ever be the same.

Two train rides later, I was really ready to get to the Cinque Terre. The 2nd class trains are unairconditioned (sp?) and on a day like today, that means they are hot and stuffy. But the scenery was truly beautiful. The paths on either side of the train tracks are sprinkled with red poppies and some variety of purple flower that almost looks like heather. Very scenic.

I must say that I became giddy at the first site of the ocean. It was absolutely breathtaking. The train tracks are RIGHT along the coast. And, I guess because it's just so beautiful, they've carved out arched windows in the tunnels, so you get a view of the ocean. It really just can't be described.

What can be described is what it's like getting off the train at Corniglia and trucking it up 365 steps to the town above. I could have taken a bus, but waiting for buses makes me ancy in a way that waiting for trains does not, so I started off up the steps. It was a little strenuous, covering the steps at mid-day with both of my bags and very little water. I can't impress upon you how seriously I considered what would happen if I were to collapse. My heart was thrumming. But, obviously, I made it to the top of the steps without any kind of collapse. The hostel was very easy to find, which was nice.

So the hostel: it's the only one in Corniglia and the surrounding area, so I didn't have a lot of choice. However, the dorm room is nice and I've met some great people. However, the bathroom is a little weird. First of all, there are two showers--but both of them have clear glass doors...Also, the washing machine is in the women's bathroom, which means that men come in periodically to use the washing machine. Did I mention the glass doors to the showers? At least the actual rooms with toilets have real doors with locks. Call me an uptight American, but I'm not crazy about the bathroom situation.

However, I took a shower anyway, and then went out to explore the town and find food. Well, I got food at the only grocery store and then found my way onto one of the trails, which turned out to be the most strenuous trail in the area. Ha. Needless to say, I soon turned back and ended up at the hostel with a bottle of water.

This evening after dinner (which I had with a girl staying in my room), we walked to this look-out point to watch the sun set. Though it cannot really be described, words that hint at description are: amazing, beautiful, moving, breath-taking, and freaking AH-MAZ-ING. But really, it was magical. Like in Venice, the light had a misty quality that made it difficult to differentiate where the water ended and the sky began. Add to that the sound of the waves and cries of the sea-gulls, and it's kind of heavenly. It also smelled good, because there were trailing vines of flowers over the wall. You know, your average...

I think that it's maybe one of the most beautiful nature scene I've ever encountered. Now, you are probably expecting pictures, but the thing is: to try and capture that sunset with a second-rate Nikon camera feels like sacrilege right now, so I'm gonna sleep on it, and you can expect pictures tomorrow. Buona Notte (or Boa Noits, as my Portuguese room-mate from last night taught me to say).